Why I like to grow potatoes

Read guest blogger Richard Barrett’s advice on avoiding potato blight

Why I like to grow potatoes

The potato started life as food for the poor but has risen in value to become a favourite vegetable for everybody.  I like to grow my own potatoes because I then know in what conditions they have been grown. Commercially the plants are often repeatedly sprayed with fungicide to safeguard against blight and then the foliage is knocked back by herbicide before harvest. This seems a poor environment for food crop.

So I have my own potato patch, it is light soil that does not waterlog, has lots of sunshine and is free of tree roots. Also it the land around slopes away, so is not a frost pocket where the cold air can flow into. The soil is alkaline, this can mean the tubers may have scab on their skins, but this diminishes when potatoes are grown regularly in the same soil as a micro-organism builds up that prevents scab. That does not mean that I do not use crop rotation but often the same patch is used every other year. I make lots of cold compost, where garden waste is processed in a big heap and left to its own devices for a year. So I apply the compost to ground early in the year for the rain to wash the goodness in, any course particles can be raked off to go back into the new heap. Although cold compost contains viable weed seeds, this does not matter because the leafy potatoes will smother any weed seedlings. I will also apply seaweed meal to the soil so my plants have extra minerals for growing, these will hopefully enter the potato tubers too. Keeping the vegetable plot free of weeds and in good cultivation keeps pests like wireworm and slugs at bay.

From St Patrick’s Day onwards I start planting the seed potatoes in variety, first earlies first and then so on to maincrop, completing the process by Easter. I plant to a depth of six inches and leave all well alone until I see small sprouts of potato leaves appearing on the surface of the soil. Then in stages I start to earth the sprouting leaves forming a trench either side of the row, if frost threatens, then I earth up completely covering the new shoots, otherwise they can be left just showing. Early planting is worthwhile as the potatoes stand a good chance of cropping before blight emerges in late summer.

There are two types of blight, early blight which discolours the foliage inhibiting the plants to grow, but far worse is late blight which appears as black/brown necrotic spots in a humid August/September gradually defoliating the plants and then entering the tubers which rot from within, making the potatoes inedible.

Guest blogger - Richard Barrett - Why I like to grow potatoes

The potato on the left is infected with blight

There is much written within seed catalogues about which varieties to choose. The best advice is to grow a range of varieties, that way you can reap the benefits of potato growing whatever the weather. Early blight is a nuisance but tolerable, picking off poor leaves can help the plant. When late blight appears you must cut all the foliage away to soil level immediately, yet there are some varieties such as Sarpo Mira that can resist blight, so the leaves of such can be left growing.

What is not mentioned in potato literature is the difference between thick and thin skinned potatoes. The tubers of thick skinned variety like Cara can be left in the ground where they remain fresh and full of moisture, then lifted as required for the kitchen. Whereas Orla is a tasty variety with beautiful foliage that resists early blight, but it is thin skinned and must be harvested as soon as possible or the tubers will be damaged by pests such as slugs and wireworm. Whatever varieties you choose, or method of cultivation, the potato is a very rewarding and nutritious vegetable to grow.

Guest blogger - Richard Barrett - Why I like to grow potatoes

The harvest in

Richard Barrett
I have held an allotment since 1987 and am now secretary for the association. I like to grow my vegetables as naturally as possible but have an open mind towards technology and it’s products. I usually enter the competition organised by the federation of local allotments and have achieved a certificate of merit for my plot, but have never won outright as work commitments inhibit my efforts to have the plot that tidy. I won a first prize for my cherry tomatoes in the Royal Oxfordshire Horticultural Society Show in 2009.


  1. James Stroud of Bangor University is collecting samples of late-blight from both tomato and potato from allotments and gardens throughout Great Britain and Ireland. If your site is prone to blight outbreaks and there are outdoor tomatoes present, and you are willing to take part, please email your postal address to him at: afpe57@bangor.ac.uk.


  2. Having planted your potatoes then your first duty of care is protect the emerging shoots from frost, this is done by earthing up the shoots when cold weather threatens. Many gardeners create a small ridge over the potato after planting, then as the shoots poke through these ridges can be made bigger to keep the shoots covered if frost is forecast. Possibly with this late spring the weather will be without frost in which cases the ridges can remain shallow. On that point as the potatoes grow, some may appear close to the soil surface and if you wash the soil away watering the potatoes, then they will become green and inedible. So at some point in the year I go along the row and feel for these surface tubers and harvest them so that the plants energy goes to those tubers that are deeper in the soil.

  3. Im growing my 1st potatoes this year so its useful to know what to watch out for


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