How to grow fuchsias

There are few plant groups that are as diverse as the fuchsia. These exotic looking beauties are firm favourites for their pendant flowers in a wonderful range of colour combinations. Fuchsias may be deciduous or evergreen depending on their variety and growing conditions. They’re versatile too, growing happily in sun or semi shade. These hard working shrubs will flower virtually all summer long, filling borders, beds, window boxes, hanging baskets and patio containers – in fact, they will bring colour to almost any position that you can think of.

FuchsiaHow to grow Fuchsias

Pot up fuchsia plug plants using a good quality, well drained compost such as John Innes No.3, and grow them on in warm, frost-free conditions. Trailing fuchsia plug plants may be planted directly into baskets, window boxes and containers. These should also be grown on in warm, frost free conditions until they are well developed.

Pinch out the growing tips of each plant while they are still small to promote bushier growth and more flowers. When all risk of frost has passed, gradually acclimatise fuchsia plants to outdoor conditions over a 7 to 10 day period, before moving them (or planting them out) in their final positions. Watch our helpful video to learn how to pinch out Fuchsia stems.

Fuchsias are very versatile and can be grown in sun or semi shade in any fertile, moist well drained soil, although they will appreciate some shade during the hottest part of the day. Choose a position that offers shelter from cold, drying winds.

When growing hardy fuchsias in the ground they are best planted so that the base of the stem is 5cm (2″) below the soil surface. This will help to protect the crown of the plant during cold winter weather.

Feeding and watering fuchsias

Water fuchsias regularly to maintain moist, but not waterlogged conditions. Fuchsias that are grown in containers will need frequent watering depending on the size of the container and weather conditions. Hanging baskets should be watered at least once a day during hot summer weather. Fuchsias that are planted directly into borders will become more self sufficient once established.

Although many fuchsia plants are naturally floriferous, it is well worth feeding them every few weeks throughout the summer, especially those grown in hanging baskets and containers. Use a soluble fertiliser such as Chempak Fuchsia Feed. Regular feeding will encourage an endless supply of flowers and frequent deadheading will also prolong the flowering period.

The war against weeds – part 2

Perennial weeds are far trickier to deal with than annual weeds. They die back in winter each year before re-emerging the following spring so you need to kill the root in order to kill the plant. Worse still, some weeds such as bindweed can propagate themselves from the tiniest piece of broken root, so it’s really important to clear these weeds thoroughly before you dig over or rotavate the soil.

annual-meadow-grass

A sustained attack is usually the most successful course of action. Ideally you can remove them by hand, digging out the roots and all. Alternatively, hoe the tops off immediately when they appear above ground. Be persistent and eventually this will starve the roots and kill the plant.

weeds

Of course, for many gardeners, the most reliable method is to use weedkiller.  There are a staggering array of different types available to the gardener, so how do you choose the right weedkiller for the job? Once again, it pays to know what type of weed you are tackling. Annual weeds can be quickly and easily killed using a contact action weedkiller. This will kill only the part of the plant that comes into contact with it so you need to be thorough when spraying. This type of herbicide works fast and you will quickly see results.

Perennial weeds on the other hand are best killed using a systemic herbicide such as Glyphosate.  These herbicides enter the plant cells when they are sprayed onto foliage. The chemical is gradually transported to the roots where it will slowly kill the weed. Systemic herbicides will take much longer, and may require subsequent applications for particularly persistent weeds, but they are ultimately far more effective at preventing regrowth. Try to be patient when using this type of weedkiller as it can take several weeks for the roots to die, even though the top of the plant may appear dead already.

weeds

Once weeds are under control, it’s worth keeping on top of them.  A quick tour of the garden with your hoe once a week is far less daunting than waging war against a full army of weeds.

The war against weeds – Part 1

There is one thing that unites us as gardeners – our dislike of weeds! Competing with our carefully tended plants for light, space, water and nutrients, and often more vigorous in growth than our cultivated varieties.

If like me, you are busy with work and family, it’s all too easy to turn your back for five minutes, only to discover that you are growing a beautiful display of dandelions. The veggie plot is covered in bindweed, and goosegrass is forming superb ground cover throughout the flower borders.  After sighing despondently I decided that it was time to take back my garden.

weeds

There’s one golden rule in the war against weeds – know your enemies! This will help you decide which weapons to choose in your battle against them. Annual weeds, like shepherds purse, hairy bittercress , goosegrass and chickweed will only live for a year. However, they seed prolifically and spread with ease. For this reason, it is best to tackle annual weeds before they have a chance to set seed and multiply.  I like to catch them when they are in flower as they are easiest to spot at this stage.

chickweed

Luckily most annual weeds have quite shallow roots so they are easy to pull out by hand. Larger patches can be quickly dispatched with a hoe which will sever the stem from the roots. This is best done on a sunny and dry day when the stems will quickly shrivel up and die. If the area is otherwise uncultivated then a sheet of permeable black plastic will slow the progress of annual weeds by cutting out light and preventing their growth. This can be a handy technique if you are preparing the area for a crop later in the season.

weeds

Of course, for many gardeners, the most reliable method is to use weed killer. More on that in part 2 of my war against weeds blog !

Gardening with children

Gardening with children

From a small seed a mighty trunk may grow. Aeschylus.

Working in horticulture brings with it a certain responsibility – that of everyone else’s gardens! Friends, family, passing acquaintances and even complete strangers will freely ask your horticultural advice at any given opportunity – and that’s ok. I rather like it!

This week I received an email from my sister, who has twin girls aged 2. They are just at the stage where the big outdoors holds a certain appeal and quite rightly, she wants to start them gardening young – probably in the hope that they will be mowing the lawn by the age of 10!

Mini greenhouse

Mini greenhouse

“I’m thinking of doing some gardening with the girls in the spring – probably just some tubs and containers of veg and a few flowers for them to water.  Going to ask for a mini greenhouse for Xmas. Any recommendations? And also any good varieties of seeds that are easy for us to grow?  Just seen the “Explorer” seeds on Thompson & Morgan website.  Like the look of the mini carrots and the ladybird poppies!  Also thought about some sunflowers, climbing French beans and stuff like that.  Any other suggestions??”

Well this made me think. Under usual circumstances I would give a textbook reply – mumble something about sunflowers, and that would be sufficient. But now that I am expecting a little girl myself, things have changed quite significantly. This time I actually thought about it properly.

So here was my reply:

“Regarding your gardening plans, I would suggest that you get a fairly solid mini greenhouse – it will certainly protect your young plants from the worst of the weather, particularly if you position it in a bright, sheltered spot. The plastic covered ones aren’t warm enough to grow seedlings early in the season but you can start them off on a windowsill, and then move them to your mini greenhouse once the weather warms up a bit. Or you could get a cold frame!

Strawberries - grow your own!

Strawberries – grow your own!

If you want to get the girls interested then I would suggest that you try:

  • Sunflowers (seeds are easy to handle, fast growing)
  • Marigolds (colourful, reliable, quick growing, and deadheading is fun!)
  • Cherry tomatoes (quick growing, bite size so they can eat them straight off the plant)
  • Strawberries (low maintenance and can be eaten straight from plant)
  • Beans (runners/ climbing – whatever they like to eat!) (Runners make a really impressive display in a massive container on the patio!)
Potatoes - grow in bags to save space

Potatoes – grow in bags to save space

Carrots – yeah, they are ok but they do take quite a while to get going and there isn’t much fun to be had! Better to do some bags of potatoes on the patio. Emptying spud bags out and digging about in the soil to find the tubers is some of the best fun to be had in the garden – EVER! I still love it at my age!

Also try some direct sowing (i.e straight into prepared ground – literally throw and sow!).

Californian poppies - just throw and sow

Californian poppies – just throw and sow

Try Eschscholzia (Californian poppies) – they are good and colourful. We also do a nice butterfly mix to attract some wildlife to the garden. ”

So hopefully next year there will be plenty going on in my sister’s garden for her girls to enjoy and get involved in, but none of it should be too high maintenance. However her question has made me realise the limitations of my own garden when it comes to entertaining little people – but that’s a whole different subject that is best saved for another post!

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