Pets and plants don’t always go together. My ‘Border Terrorists’, Ogmore and Dylan, are notorious for chomping foliage. Whilst they mainly graze on Dog Mercury and other outdoor weeds, they have also unleashed their rasping tongues on my once elegant Bamboo Palm ( Dypsis lutescens), leaving it looking as though it has been attacked by a giant slug. Fortunately, Bamboo Palm is entirely non-toxic to pets, but other plants are best kept away from your furry friends. Our panel of Thompson & Morgan pooches and pussycats have put aside their differences and got together to guide you through the best pet-friendly plants.
Non-Toxic Houseplants for Pets
Palms
The arching stems of palms look elegant in any setting and are non-toxic to pets
Hello! My name is Hamish. I’m two and a half years old and my favourite hobbies include shredding cardboard, having my ears groomed and stealing people’s seats as soon as they stand up.
Being a graceful Cocker Spaniel, I like to luxuriate amongst elegant palms. Bamboo Palm (Dypsis lutescens), Kentia Palm (Howea forsteriana) and Parlour Palm (Chamaedorea elegans) are all pet friendly houseplants. With gracefully arching stems and slender foliage, these palms make striking specimen plants as well as functioning as tall backdrops in group arrangements. They bring a tropical ambience and relaxing mood into the home. All enjoy bright light but will tolerate some shade.
Do avoid Cycas revoluta, the Sago Palm, as it can be lethally poisonous to dogs.
Ferns
Hello I’m Buddy. I’m one and a half years old. My favourite hobbies include stealing clothes from the laundry basket, playing on the beach and cuddling under my blanket on cold days.
I love the soft, lush foliage of ferns. But do make sure you select true ferns and beware of plants pretending to be them such as ‘Asparagus fern’ which is not a fern at all but a member of the highly toxic lily family. Ferns like The Boston Fern (Nephrolepis exaltata), Birds Nest Fern (Asplenium) and Maidenhair (Adiantum raddianum) are great for bathrooms as they will tolerate lower light levels whilst benefitting from the additional humidity. I love lounging beside the radiator but ferns won’t. Place them in a cool spot out of strong, direct sunlight and keep the compost moist but not wet.
Calathea
Hello, my name is Dylan. I’m a sophisticated canine with an appetite for country pursuits such as fox-chasing and tug-o-war. I spend my leisure hours in deep meditation whilst having my tummy scratched.
My houseplant recommendation is Calathea. Perfectly safe for pets, they are stylish and exotic foliage plants which come in a wide choice of sophisticated patterns and colouring. They will also tolerate lower light levels.
Succulents
Hello, my name is Ogmore, but my friends call me Ogg. My chief pastime is looking for food and the rest of the day is spent eating it. Also known as The Omnivorous Ogmore, I have successfully eaten giant holes in all my owner’s pockets thus rendering them useless. I can’t say as I’m terribly interested in plants, unless they’re edible, but I’m drawn to succulents as they sound edible to me.
The majority of succulents are pet-friendly but there are a few toxic species to avoid. The most common are : Aloe, Jade Plant (Crassula ovata), Kalanchoe, Sanseviera, Senecio and Euphorbia.
The rest are great plants for households with pets. Easy-going and tolerant of neglect, their neat, sculptural forms are always crowd-pleasers and they look especially good when grown as collections.
Pilea and Polka Dots
Hello, I’m Teddy. I’m six months old. Whilst I look like a little angel, I’m anything but! My favourite hobbies include constantly crying for food, not listening and giving sass. I like cheeky little plants and my favourites are the Chinese Money Plant (Pilea Peperomioides) and the Pink Polka Dot Plant (Hypoestes phyllostachya) which unlike me, are very well-behaved. Both have fun foliage which will add cheer to a bright window sill.
Spider Plant
Hello, my name is Dougie, I’m nearly 3 years old. My favourite hobbies include destroying soft toys, cuddling with humans and going on walks with my doggy friends.
I like the deservedly popular Spider Plant (Chlorophytum comosum). Like me, it’s easy-going and very friendly, so friendly that it will readily produce numerous little plantlets which you can pot up and give as gifts to your friends.
Hello I’m Zippy. As an indoor tortoise and a dedicated vegetarian, I’m an expert on houseplants. I don’t hibernate, but just get particularly grumpy and lazy at this time of year. Just for you, I have accumulated my many years of wisdom to compile this curmudgeonly list of poisonous plants.
Annelise Brilli is the Horticultural Copywriter for Thompson and Morgan. Annelise caught the gardening bug from her mother, whose tiny backyard was crammed with a huge collection of plants. As an adult, she had a career change into horticulture, gaining a training apprenticeship with the National Trust at Powis Castle Garden in Welshpool. She went on to work in a range of private and public gardens, later running a garden design and maintenance business. She is passionate about sustainable gardening and has developed her own wildlife-friendly garden which she has opened as part of Macmillan Coastal Garden Trail.
Go native and plant the ultimate wildlife hotel! Winter is the perfect time for hedge planting, and if you seriously want to put conservation into action, planting a native hedge is an easy and effective way to help some of our most threatened UK species.
For most of us, large trees and woodland patches are beyond the scope of our modestly sized gardens, but native hedging plants function as mini woodlands which are absolutely teeming with wildlife. Supporting up to 80 per cent of our woodland birds, 50 per cent of our mammals and 30 per cent of our butterflies, the benefits of hedgerows to wildlife are indisputable. However, in some parts of the UK, up to 50% of hedgerows have disappeared. This is where gardeners can step in and make a real difference.
So, get planting your Hedgerow Hotel! Here is an introduction to just some of the wonderful guests who will be eagerly waiting to check in.
Hedgehogs
Hedgehogs are suffering catastrophic declines in their population, numbers plummeting by around 50% just since the turn of the century. The highest numbers of hedgehogs are found in suburban areas where badgers are scarce, and this means that gardeners have a vital role to play in helping save this unique and much-loved animal.
Don’t fence me in!
Hedgehogs may look small and cute, but their nights are spent on strenuous long distance runs of 1-2km every night! Incredibly, each individual will cover a territory of 10-20 hectares. They need to be able to move about freely, but enclosed gardens surrounded by impenetrable walls and fencing carve up their habitats and leave them dangerously isolated. Native hedging composed of species such as beech, field maple and hazel provides essential wildlife corridors for hedgehogs, linking habitats whilst providing shelter and food. The leaf litter from these deciduous trees accumulates at the bottom of the hedge, providing a warm and cosy bed. Meanwhile, the hedge supplies a bountiful larder of juicy earthworms and ground beetles to fatten them up for the winter. Protected by thorny species such as blackthorn, hawthorn and holly, hedgehogs can safely hole up and hibernate.
Hedgehogs are the ultimate gardener’s friend. Help them out by planting a hedge and enjoy the magical sight and sounds of Tiggywinkles snaffling up enemy slugs, caterpillars and earwigs.
Field Mouse
Your hedge will provide a home for many small mammals, such as this field mouse.
Other small mammals such as mice and voles will also hide out in your hedge. Not to be confused with the unwelcome house mouse, the field mouse or wood mouse commonly lives in gardens although, as they sleep in burrows during the day, they can be hard to spot. Keep your eyes peeled in the evenings when they venture out to forage for food and you might catch one making a lightening dash from underneath your hedge. As well as gobbling up snails, insects and fungi, wood mice will collect berries and tree seeds from hedges. Hazel nuts, sweet chesnuts, beech mast, hawthorn berries and cherry stones from wild cherry will keep their winter larders in underground burrows and old birds’ nests well stocked with food supplies.
Birds
Birds will quickly use your hedge for nesting sites. Take care not to disturb them during the breeding season from March to August.
In urban and suburban areas with little woodland, birds rely on hedges. Many of the species most commonly associated with gardens such as blue tit, great tit, dunnocks and chaffinches were originally deciduous woodland birds.
Hedges provide excellent opportunities for roosting and nesting. By incorporating evergreen species such as holly and ivy you will create additional cover. At the bottom of the hedge, wrens, robins, dunnocks and whitethroats will build their nests. Whilst song thrushes, blackbirds, chaffinches and greenfinches will nest higher up. To avoid disturbing breeding birds, do make sure you avoid cutting your hedges from March to August.
Hedges also offer protection from predators such as sparrowhawks and of course, the domestic cat. Meanwhile, Robins and blackbirds will exploit hedge tops as conspicuous but safe song posts to show off their musical repertoire.
This colourful bullfinch is tucking into the juicy berries of Guelder Rose (Viburnum opulus).
Hedges are also living larders, supplying an abundance of seeds, nuts and berries for hungry birds with each species having its own preferred food. Blackbirds favour the haw fruits of hawthorn, but are unfussy in their tastes, enjoying rosehips, sloes, dogwood, buckthorn, elder, yew and holly. Redwings and Fieldfares will feast off holly berries, whilst the larger mistle thrush will happily tackle the bigger blackthorn sloes. Many native hedging plants also produce seeds and nuts which birds enjoy, including alder, beech, hazel, hornbeam and silver birch.
Bats
Bats like this Common Pipistrelle become lost and disorientated without ‘hedge highways’.
Think you don’t have bats in your garden? Look again. A number of bat species frequent gardens, the most common being the Common Pipistrelle and the Soprano Pipistrelle. Turn your lights off at dusk, look outside and you may catch one flitting by.
Hedges are vital to bats. They use them as navigation features to orientate themselves in the landscape and prefer to move about along these ‘commuter routes’ rather than open areas. Hedges will provide them with roosting sites and plenty of food in the form of moths and other insects.
Butterflies& Moths
When you are thinking about attracting butterflies to your garden, hedges may not immediately spring to mind. But our native hedgerows supply important larval food plants for butterflies and moths, as well as nectar-rich flowers and vital shelter from the elements.
In summer my holly hedges are swarming with holly blue butterflies, whose inconspicuous green caterpillars feed on them along with other hedgerow species such as Spindle.
Holly blue butterfly on Holly (Ilex acquifolium)
In spring, the caterpillars of the rare Black and Brown Hairstreak butterflies emerge from eggs laid on the leaves of blackthorn and wild cherry and begin feeding on them. Blackthorn is also an important food plant for many moth caterpillars, such as the beautiful Magpie and the ghostly Swallow-Tailed Moth.
Blackthorn is a food plant for many moth caterpillars including this Magpie Moth.
I frequently catch the spectacular pink and green Elephant Hawkmoth in my garden moth traps. Encourage them by planting some honeysuckle to ramble through your hedge as they feed on its nectar-rich flowers. Watch the adults flying at dusk, and in the day keep an eye out for their crazy looking caterpillars which sport huge eyespots to scare off predators.
The caterpillar of the Elephant Hawkmoth
The adult Elephant Hawkmoth feeds off honeysuckle.
Bumblebees & Beneficial insects
Compared to individual garden flowers, a hedge provides a surprisingly large volume of pollen and nectar for foraging insects. By selecting a variety of species which flower at different times of the year, you can ensure that there’s food for bees all year round as well as blossom for you to enjoy. Moreover, different flowers will attract different pollinators, so the more variety the greater the diversity of insects your hedge will support.
Early spring is a crucial time for hungry bees. We often fail to notice the inconspicuous flowers of native hedgerow tree species such as willow, hazel and field maple, but these flowers produce an abundance of early pollen and nectar. Hedges come alive in the spring, first with blackthorn blossom and then the creamy white scented flowers of hawthorn, wild cherry and crab apple. In late spring and early summer our native Viburnums, the wayfaring tree and the guelder rose, begin blooming. In early to midsummer, come the strongly scented flowers of elderberry and the wild dog rose. Adding ivy to your hedge provides nectar sources in the autumn when few other sources are available and for this reason a clump of ivy will hum with hoverflies, bees and other insects when in full flower. These late sources of food will fatten up new bumble queens so they are in tip top condition for hibernation.
As well as sources of food, hedges also provide homes for insects. Bumblebees nest and hibernate in the bases of hedges where they are protected from predators and the weather whilst remaining close to food. The cover provided by hedges will also provide plentiful nesting sites for spiders and other insects.
Selecting native hedge species
Traditionally, hedgerows contained predominantly hawthorn and blackthorn, with about 60-70% of the hedge being composed of these thorny species which quickly provided a dense hedge and a prickly barrier to livestock. If you are using hawthorn or blackthorn, bear in mind that these are very vigorous and plant your other chosen varieties in groups of two or three so that they aren’t outcompeted by them.
However, you can compose your native hedge mix with whatever native species you wish. Our Native Hedging Collection includes 5 species which will provide varied interest. Alternatively make your own selection from the list below. Aim for a range of woody species and to maximise wildlife value, include some rambling plants such as wild rose, honeysuckle and ivy.
Of course, there is no law which says you have to use native species. Although our wildlife has evolved a unique relationship with native trees and shrubs, there are also non-native hedging plants which provide wildlife value. For a full list, consult our Native & Wildlife Hedging page.
Maintaining a hedge may seem like more hassle than putting up a fence but think again! Fencing requires painting, goes rotten and is frequently toppled by storms. Whereas a well-maintained hedge lasts a life time.
Bushy is Best
To grow a good-looking dense hedge which will also harbour plenty of wildlife, you need to encourage lots of side shoots from the outset. Hawthorn and Blackthorn are especially vigorous, so on planting be brave and cut them back to about a foot (30cm). Lightly prune other deciduous species but leave evergreens like holly alone.
Ongoing pruning regime
How often and when you prune your hedge will depend on how big you can allow it to get and how tidy a hedge you prefer. However, the more regularly you prune and the smaller your hedge, the less value it has for wildlife. Therefore, try to affect a compromise which suits your situation whilst maximising wildlife value. Above all, avoid pruning between March and August when birds are nesting.
Smaller, tighter hedge
Regular pruning in the early autumn will keep your hedge in check. Native hedge species are vigorous and pruning at this time helps to restrict vegetative growth. However, autumn pruning will inevitably remove some berries, seeds and insects over the winter when birds and mammals need them most.
Larger, less tidy hedge
Leaving your regular pruning until Jan or February allows wildlife to feast on insects and fruits during the winter months. However, winter pruning encourages the growth of vigorous new shoots which will leave your hedge looking more straggly for the rest of the year.
Rotational Pruning
Most flowers and fruit are produced on 2–3-year-old wood and so annual pruning will reduce the amount of food available to wildlife. To ensure plenty of spring flowers for pollinating insects and autumn/winter berries for birds, then adopt a rotational system. Instead of cutting it every year try trimming it every other year or cut alternate sides. As well as encouraging wildlife, it will also save you time and effort.
Go wild about hedges!
Whilst planting a legacy woodland is beyond the scope of most gardens, planting a hedge is also leaving a lasting legacy. Over time, a hedge will develop a complex ecological web, supporting a diverse community of animals all the way up the food chain, from the humble bumblebee to the much-loved hedgehog.
So, if you are thinking of planting a hedge this winter, don’t hedge about! Go wild and plant some native tree species. Not only will wildlife enjoy it, but you will enjoy the wildlife too.
Annelise Brilli is the Horticultural Copywriter for Thompson and Morgan. Annelise caught the gardening bug from her mother, whose tiny backyard was crammed with a huge collection of plants. As an adult, she had a career change into horticulture, gaining a training apprenticeship with the National Trust at Powis Castle Garden in Welshpool. She went on to work in a range of private and public gardens, later running a garden design and maintenance business. She is passionate about sustainable gardening and has developed her own wildlife-friendly garden which she has opened as part of Macmillan Coastal Garden Trail.
That is the question asked by many a gardener, their watering can hovering over a stubbornly mute Aspidistra which refuses to reveal whether it’s thirsty or not! “When did I last water it?” you ask yourself. “Last week? Last month? ….Last year?” At this point you are pondering the possibility of encroaching dementia as your watering recollections have merged into a dense fog. “How often am I supposed to water this thing anyway?” you wonder, dashing to look it up on Google. “Every week”, “Every other week”, “Every few weeks”; the answers are as varied as the water stains on your furnishings which you are now eyeing up crossly. Clearly, your inability to divine your Aspidistra’s needs must be down to an absence of those mystifying ‘green thumbs’ and you splurge a glug of water into the saucer ‘just for good measure’ before stomping off to quench your own thirst with a cuppa.
Sounds like a familiar story? Well, sit back, enjoy your tea and I will attempt to clear the muddy waters around this critical topic.
Rule of Thumb
Image: Shutterstock
Your friend may provoke garden envy with her lush urban jungle of tropical houseplants, but this is not down to an innate gift for communicating with the plant world. Having ‘green thumbs’ is not a special talent, but simply the application of a skill which all of us already possess: observation.
All you need to do is ‘get your eye in’ and regularly observe the condition of your plants, their environment and the relationship between them. This is the key to successful watering.
A Potty Problem
Image: Shutterstock
All houseplants come in pots. This unremarkable fact is crucial to appreciating why watering is a skill and why the incorrect application of water is the most common cause of death for houseplants.
The Root of the Issue
Image: Shutterstock
A pot is an entirely unnatural environment for a plant and makes it especially vulnerable to watering errors. Contained within a pot, the roots of a plant are restricted from following their natural growth pattern. Plants may have a constricted root ball which is less able to take up water and nutrients. They aren’t able to search for water during dry periods and are entirely reliant on your care.
Ephiphytes, like these Tillandsias, don’t naturally grow in the soil, so their roots won’t appreciate being surrounded by soggy compost! Image: Shutterstock
Conversely, the root ball may be too small for the pot and surrounded by sodden compost. This is particularly the case for epiphytic species such as Orchids, Anthurium and Bromeliad. In their natural habitat, these plants do not grow in the ground. Instead, they attach themselves to the branches of tropical trees where their exposed roots are lavished with high aerial humidity. These roots will not appreciate being surrounded by soggy, airless compost and they are especially susceptible to overwatering.
Meanwhile, other plants simply can’t stretch their roots in the direction they would wish when they’re trapped in a pot. For example, most ferns like to grow their roots outwards rather than downwards, but pots don’t permit this to happen.
Drainage is essential!
The way water behaves in a pot is quite different to the open ground where water disperses through natural drainage channels. For this reason, pot plants can quickly become saturated after watering. It is essential to use pots which have plenty of drainage holes. If you are recycling containers make sure that you drill or punch holes in the bottom. To prevent ruining your furnishings you will need to use a saucer with your pot. When you water, allow the water to drain through and then empty the saucer shortly afterwards. Never leave your plant to sit for ages in a saucer full of water – this is a reliable way of killing it!
If you have a stylish pot which you don’t want to spoil with a saucer then grow your plant in another pot which sits inside. Whilst it isn’t impossible to grow plants in pots without drainage holes, it makes managing water very challenging.
Also ensure that you are growing your plants in the correct medium. Most houseplants require coarse, free draining compost and dry-loving species such as Cacti and succulents will require plenty of grit. Epiphytic species need a soil-less potting mix which is composed of coarse materials such as bark.
How Often Do I need to Water My Houseplant?
Image: Shutterstock
There is no secret formula for how often to water your houseplant as there are so many variables which can affect watering requirements. Although it’s possible to give rough rules of thumb which indicate the watering ‘tolerance’ of a plant, ultimately it comes down to your observation skills!
Watering Frequency Checklist:
Leaves
Plants with fleshy, thick, hairy, waxy or smaller leaves/stems will all dry out more slowly and tolerate drier conditions. A larger leaf surface area – either larger individual leaves or a dense canopy – will lose water quicker.
Roots
A congested root ball in a small pot will dry out quicker and be harder to rehydrate. Plants with poor or immature root systems need watering with care as they are easily over-saturated.
The Pot
The material of your pot will have a significant impact. Clay pots are porous and will rapidly suck water out which is then lost through evaporation. This can mitigate over watering. If you overwater a plant in a glazed pot, then the plants roots are likely to remain saturated for a long time.
Plant Position
Where your plants are growing will directly influence their watering needs. Plants placed on a sunny south-facing window sill will dry out much quicker than those in north facing rooms. In winter, plants may dry out quickly if they are positioned close to central heating. Arranging plants in a group can increase local humidity so plants will dry out more slowly.
Time of the Year
In the winter, lower light levels and cooler conditions cause growth to slow down and plants will undergo a resting period during which they should be kept drier. However, if you have the heating running all day make sure your plants are not becoming desiccated.
In spring, plant growth accelerates, and you can begin to water and feed them more. Watch the growth of your plant and water accordingly.
How do I know if my plant needs watering?
Four basic watering rules:
1. Give the compost a prod
Stick your finger into the compost as far as possible and check the moisture level. Be aware that the surface of the compost might be dry whilst the bottom of the pot remains wet. Pick up the pot and look underneath. Is there moisture on the bottom? Does the compost you can see in the drainage holes look dark and moist? If you are still unsure you can gently tip the plant out of its pot and inspect the root ball for moisture.
2. Check the Weight
Pick the pot up and judge the weight – you will quickly become accustomed to knowing the difference between a pot which is full of moisture and a dry one.
3.Allow the compost to dry out between waterings
Houseplants don’t enjoy constantly sitting in wet compost. Allow the compost to dry out a bit between waterings.
4. Don’t wait until the plant looks sick
A sick looking plant isn’t necessarily a plant which needs watering!
Is my plant underwatered or overwatered?
Overwatered
Overwatering causes the death of delicate plant root hairs Image: Shutterstock
The difference between an underwatered and overwatered plant may not be immediately apparent. Plant roots are covered in tiny ‘root hairs’ which is where most of the water is absorbed. Overwatering causes these tiny hairs to die and so ironically, the plant can no longer take up water! The plant is also deprived of oxygen because in saturated conditions all the air spaces in the compost have been displaced by water.
If overwatering occurs, leaves will go brown at the edges and fall off, growth is poor, and eventually the whole plant will collapse into a sorry mess. Signs which all look confusingly similar to an under watered plant.
Overwatered and underwatered plants can display similar symptoms Image: Shutterstock
As a result, a common mistake when confronted by a brown, crispy or collapsed plant is to splurge water onto it. Resist this temptation. Always examine the compost first and, if necessary, the root ball. If the compost is already wet and/or the roots brown and rotting, then you know the problem is overwatering.
If you have overwatered your plant, then deliver emergency aid quickly! As soon as you realise your mistake, carefully remove the plant from its pot and sit it on a heap of newspapers to dry out the root ball.
Other signs of overwatering
Mosses, liverworts or moulds on the surface
This is a sure sign that you are overwatering your plant. Stop! Dry out the root ball.
Sciarid fly
Have you spotted those annoying little flies scurrying over the surface of the compost? These are sciarid flies and they love moist compost, so you are probably overwatering your plant.
Avoid Overpotting
Only pot up your houseplant when the root ball becomes congested Image: Shutterstock
Avoid potting up your houseplants unless they are becoming pot bound. Remember – aside from aquatic dwellers or bog-lovers, plants do not enjoy having their root ball sitting in a large mass of soggy compost. Moreover, plant roots resent disturbance, and no matter how careful you are, repotting will cause some root damage. After repotting, plants tend to stagnate for a while, and root growth is halted. This effect is called transplant shock. Plants suffering ‘transplant shock’ are not in active growth and will be even more sensitive to sitting in over-saturated compost.
Underwatered
Routinely observe the condition of your plants leaves. The first signs of underwatering are lack of ‘turgidity’ in the leaves. Simply put, the leaf cells are no longer plumped up with water. With thin leaved plants the leaves will drop and the whole plant will collapse quickly if underwatered. However, many houseplants are equipped with a tough outer ‘cuticle’ to their leaves and stems so the signs are more subtle. Look for a wrinkled appearance to the outer surface of the leaf. The leaf will start to soften and be less taut in appearance. As it dries out further, it will pucker and curl with the edges becoming dry and crisp. You’ve done your observational ‘detective work’ properly when you’ve checked the compost. If these symptoms are occurring and the compost is dry, then you know that the problem is underwatering.
The good news is that if you notice these signs early it is possible to save your plant. If the compost is completely dry it can be hard to rewet. In which case, plunge it into a bowl of water to rehydrate it. Even if the whole plant has collapsed the leaves will quickly pop back up again. Any shrivelled leaves can be cut back or pulled off and the plant left to regenerate new ones.
Overwatering tends to be more fatal because the death of those delicate root hairs is irreversible. This is why, when you are honing your watering skills, it is often better to err on the sign of caution.
However, although plants will generally survive bouts of drought, routine underwatering makes them feel and look stressed. Before long, aphids and other unpleasant critters move in because like humans, stressed plants are much more susceptible to pests and diseases.
Happy Watering
Image: Shutterstock
Watering is a skill, but one which anyone can master. It’s all down to observation over time. Rather than thinking of a weekly ‘watering routine’, get into the habit of a weekly ‘plant check’. Spend some time in your plants company and get to know them! Observe their overall appearance, the condition of the leaves and check the moisture level in the compost. Your houseplants will be much happier as a result.
Head to our dedicated houseplant library for more top tips on caring for your indoor plants.
Annelise Brilli is the Horticultural Copywriter for Thompson and Morgan. Annelise caught the gardening bug from her mother, whose tiny backyard was crammed with a huge collection of plants. As an adult, she had a career change into horticulture, gaining a training apprenticeship with the National Trust at Powis Castle Garden in Welshpool. She went on to work in a range of private and public gardens, later running a garden design and maintenance business. She is passionate about sustainable gardening and has developed her own wildlife-friendly garden which she has opened as part of Macmillan Coastal Garden Trail.
Houseplants function as living décor, making your home look beautiful. They also introduce nature into sterile indoor environments, injecting mood-boosting natural greenery. Finding creative ways to display your plants is the fun part, but before you do that, it is essential to consider the living conditions which plants require. The most important of these is light.
Seeing the Light!
All plants require light, and with most houseplants, the more you give them the better. Light through a window is already about 50% less intense than direct sunlight outdoors and light levels plummet as soon as you move just a few feet away.
However, some plants will tolerate shadier conditions, although, as light is required for growth, their growth rate will slow down.
Light Bulb Moment
Ordinary light bulbs don’t provide plants with the light that they need Image: Shutterstock
Ordinary incandescent light bulbs simply aren’t intense enough to keep your plants happy. Plants require both red and blue light as well as a small amount of green light. Different light spectrums have specific effects on plant growth. Light bulbs don’t provide the wide colour spectrum of natural sunlight.
How much Light?
Direct light, Bright Light, Indirect light, Shade – what does it all mean? Let’s cast some light on the tricky terminology. Move away from your screen and look out of the window!
South or West Facing Windows
The majority of plants will love a South or West facing window Image: Shutterstock
Type of Light: Bright Direct Light to Bright Indirect Light
A South or West facing window will offer the most amount of light and the majority of plants will love you for it! Not only is the light more intense, but the hours of sunlight are longer.
However, the quality of light can vary enormously during the day. Plants which receive intense midday sun directly onto their leaves can be scorched by the intense light. They may also get too hot. Provide shading for these periods.
Plants positioned a few feet away from south or west facing windows will still receive plenty of bright indirect light and grow happily.
All cacti and succulents need the bright light of a South or West facing window Image: Shutterstock
Houseplants happiest on south or west facing windows:
Philodendrons will enjoy the indirect light of an East facing window Image: Thompson & Morgan
Type of Light: Bright to moderate indirect light
Positioned directly in front of an East facing window, your houseplants will receive moderate indirect light for most of the day with some bright light directly on their leaves in the morning. However, as morning light does not tend to be as intense as afternoon light, they are unlikely to need shading.
Aglaonema, or Chinese Evergreen, is able to cope with low lighting conditions in North-facing rooms Image: Shutterstock
Type of Light: Indirect low light to shade
Rooms facing north receive no direct sunlight. Try to place your houseplants as close to the window as possible and select shade loving specimens. Moving just a few feet away from a North facing window can quickly plunge your houseplant into deep shade, especially during the winter. If you would like to brighten dark corners with greenery, it’s a good idea to consider rotation.
Given that indoor light levels are so much less than the outdoors, the general lighting conditions are unlikely to pose this issue. However, sun scorch can happen on south-facing windows where light directly hits the leaves. Some plants are more susceptible to sun scorch than others. Providing shading only during these times may be impractical, in which case, adjust the position of your plants so that they avoid direct rays.
Is my houseplant getting enough light?
Lack of light is one of the most common houseplant problems. Your plants will exhibit tell-tale signs if they are lacking in light. Look out for:
Leggy or spindly growth
If you have left your plants to grope in the dark, this is the most obvious sign. In low light conditions plants will fight to survive, stretching towards the light. The intervals, or nodes, between leaves and side shoots will lengthen. Plants may flop or collapse as growth becomes spindly and uneven.
Small leaves
Lacking energy for growth, plant leaves may become small and stunted. Lower leaves may fall off and aren’t replaced with new ones.
Slow growth or no growth
Plants may show little enthusiasm for putting out growth, and just ‘sit there.’
No flowers
Flowering houseplants need light to bloom. Lack of light will reduce or stop flowering.
Leaf colour
Variegated leaves may revert to all green. Leaves may become paler in colour (although this is most often a sign of other problems!).
Maximising Light for your houseplants
Leaf Cleaning
Image: Shutterstock
Leaves inevitably accumulate house dust. That dust not only impairs a plant’s looks and reduces the lustre of shiny leaves, but it also acts as a light-blocking screen. There is no need to buy expensive cleaning products, a damp dust cloth will suffice. Don’t press hard on the leaves as you dust them and avoid cleaning young, new leaves. For spiny and hairy leaved plants, such as African Violet, use a soft brush or blow the dust away.
During leaf-cleaning, take the opportunity to give your plant a general health check. Remove any debris, pull off dead leaves and inspect the plant for any pests or diseases.
Rotation
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If lighting conditions are poor, the priority is to make sure you select the right shade-loving species. Then practise plant rotation. Regularly turn your plants to ensure that they get sun on all sides. This promotes more even growth. Give a boost to plants which have been sulking in the shade by moving them onto a sunnier window sill for a few weeks.
Houseplant Holidays
Freeing your plants from the house to enjoy a summer holiday outdoors will improve their health. Not only will they enjoy bathing in increased light, but they will also have the benefit of fresh air and rainwater.
However, houseplants become used to the amount of light which you give them. Given that even a sunny windowsill provides significantly less light than the outdoors, they can scorch surprisingly quickly if placed outside in natural sunlight. In fact, just a couple of hours outdoors can cause ugly leaf burns. Be sure to increase light exposure gradually and always place them in a shady spot.
Guiding Light
Light is a crucial factor for the successful growing of houseplants. Always give them as much light as you can. Firstly, make a realistic assessment of the light levels in each room according to its orientation. Secondly, try to find suitable positions as close to a window as possible. Thirdly, always allow your selections to be guided by the lighting conditions. So, in duller rooms, be sure to choose tougher plants which can tolerate lower light. And lastly, maximise light for your houseplants by cleaning leaves, rotating positions and giving them the occasional outdoor summer holiday!
For more on keeping your houseplants as healthy as they can be, take a look at our dedicated houseplant hub page. Find new varieties to try, care tips and growing guides.
Annelise Brilli is the Horticultural Copywriter for Thompson and Morgan. Annelise caught the gardening bug from her mother, whose tiny backyard was crammed with a huge collection of plants. As an adult, she had a career change into horticulture, gaining a training apprenticeship with the National Trust at Powis Castle Garden in Welshpool. She went on to work in a range of private and public gardens, later running a garden design and maintenance business. She is passionate about sustainable gardening and has developed her own wildlife-friendly garden which she has opened as part of Macmillan Coastal Garden Trail.
This guide to decorating with houseplants shows you how to get creative with plant shape, texture, colour and size. Plants breathe life into sterile spaces and which houseplants you select and how you arrange them will affect the dynamics of your space and create different moods.
Shape
Decorating with Houseplants: Spiky Agave plants Image: Thompson & Morgan
Houseplants come in a myriad of shapes and understanding how these shapes function in space both alone and in tandem with others can help to make our selections more considered and effective.
Plants with hard, angular shapes such as the spiky Agave create drama and dynamism. Tree-like houseplants such as Yuccas and Dracaena have bare stems which form vertical accents that punctuate and structure space. These architectural plants are good at forming the backbone of an arrangement, framing doorways and other architectural features and moving the eye up and around a room. But too many of them and the display can become chaotic.
To balance these angular shapes, add houseplants which form restful domes or hummocks such as Begonias. Many succulents, such as Crassula, grow into neat cushions whilst others exhibit rounded leaf shapes such as Calatheas and Chinese Money Plant (Pilea Peperomiodes).
Decorating with Houseplants: Begonia rex ‘Tiger’ Image: Thompson & Morgan
Decorating with Houseplants: Many succulents, such as this Crassula, form neat hummocks. Image: Thompson & Morgan
These rounded forms soften edges and link plants together. They create a relaxed and harmonious mood. However, a houseplant arrangement which only uses these shapes will lack interest and energy. A balanced arrangement of soft and hard shapes is usually the most effective.
A balanced arrangement of houseplants: Tree-like Dracaenas elegantly frame this fireplace, their upright forms echoed in the spiky shapes of the smaller Aloe and Sansevieria in front. These vertical accents mirror the architecture of the mantlepiece. Image: Shutterstock
Although we don’t often use the word ‘texture’ to describe plants it is an important attribute which creates visual interest and affects our perception of space. Fine textured leaves such as the stringy threads of Rhipsalis and the feathery fronds of Asparagus Fern don’t demand attention and recede into space. These tactile plants invite close inspection and touch.
Bold textured plants like Alocasia jump out of space. The large simple leaves of Ficus elastica cut a clean and elegant silhouette, whilst the wavy leaves of Ficus lyrata make a solid mass with indeterminate outlines. These plants also have shiny leaves which reflect light and it pays to regularly clean the leaves to show off this quality.
Juxtaposing different types of textures will highlight textural qualities, provide interest and manipulate the perception of space.
Colour & Pattern
Clockwise from top left: Calathea zebrina, Alocasia zebrina, Caladium ‘Fast Flash’, Codiaeum variegatum var. pictum ‘Mrs Iceton’ , Begonia maculata, Begonia ‘BeLeaf Inca Night’ Image: Thompson & Morgan
Houseplant foliage offers some extraordinarily patterned and coloured leaves in a range which is not available amongst outdoor plants so it makes sense to exploit it.
Resembling exotic animal prints, the zebra stripes of Calathea zebrina and Alocasia zebrina plunge us into the jungle whilst the funky spots of Begonia maculata add some fun. Turning up the tropical heat are Caladiums, flashing foliage splashed with shocking pink and decorative veining. Begonia ‘BeLeaf Inca Night’ creates purple depth in the jungle undergrowth whilst the glittering speckles of the polka dot plant (Hypoestes phyllostachya) flash brightly. The cockatoo of this indoor tropical rainforest is Codiaeum variegatum var. pictum ‘Mrs Iceton’ with its technicolour foliage in red, green and gold.
If you prefer a cooler palette, then plump for the metallic tones of Calathea picturata ‘Argentea’ or the hanging Tradescantia zebrina. Many succulents such as Pachyphytum oviferum have attractive, glaucous foliage offering a sophisticated colour palette which works well in modern homes.
Size
This large Ficus lyrata actually makes this small corner seem larger Image: Shutterstock
Playing with scale and selecting plants of different sizes prevents arrangements from becoming uniform. Don’t be frightened to use large plants in smaller rooms. In fact, one or two large scale plants such as Monstera can actually make a room look bigger, whereas hundreds of small pots distract the eye and will reduce the sense of space.
Repetition versus Variety
An arrangement composed of lots of small pots can make a space appear smaller but it’s also a lot of fun! Image: Shutterstock
Being aware of plant attributes such as shape, texture and size allows you to play with repetition and variety and create different moods. The balance between unifying, repetitive elements and eye-catching variety is up to you, depending on the type of look you wish to achieve: Serene, classical and spacious or a joyful jumble of eclectic clutter!
Uniting arrangements by a theme, whether that be species, habit, colour or style, makes for an interesting but coherent display.
This themed collection of cacti and succulents invites us to observe detailed variations in form and colour. Image: Shutterstock
Next Up On Houseplants!
Having looked at houseplants in terms of shape, texture, colour and size, you’ll need to think about where and how to arrange them in your home. Next time I’ll be looking at the living conditions which plants require to grow happily – starting with light!
For more houseplant inspiration, and top variety reviews, go to our houseplant hub page.
Annelise Brilli is the Horticultural Copywriter for Thompson and Morgan. Annelise caught the gardening bug from her mother, whose tiny backyard was crammed with a huge collection of plants. As an adult, she had a career change into horticulture, gaining a training apprenticeship with the National Trust at Powis Castle Garden in Welshpool. She went on to work in a range of private and public gardens, later running a garden design and maintenance business. She is passionate about sustainable gardening and has developed her own wildlife-friendly garden which she has opened as part of Macmillan Coastal Garden Trail.
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