How to plant a bareroot hedge

Cooper hedging protecting smaller plants in garden

Hedging creates natural boundaries in your garden
Image: Copper Beech (Hedging) from Thompson & Morgan

Late autumn and winter is the time to plant your bareroot hedge. That’s because from late November through to March, most hedging plants are in their dormant phase and can be moved without causing undue stress. If you wait until budburst you’ll have lost your opportunity for the year, so don’t leave it too late! Planting a hedge is a satisfying job which will keep you warm on a chilly winter’s day. Here’s everything you need to know to tackle the task successfully. 

Looking for inspiration? Check out our full range of hedging plants.

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Inspiration from Arundel Castle’s Tulip Festival

Display of tulips at Arundel Castle composed of a large planting with a central square of purple and white tulips surrounded by an outer square of bright pink tulips

The shimmering ‘Wedding Cake’ of tulips at Arundel Castle
Image: Annelise Brilli

In the middle of this scorching summer, it’s easy to forget the dark days of late winter, the desperate wait for spring colour and the immense joy when tulips emerge, studding bare borders like jewels. Gardening is all about planning ahead, and although spring seems very far away, you need to start thinking about which spring bulbs you’d like to grow now.  

Months of careful planning at Arundel Castle in West Sussex creates one of the largest spring bulb displays in the UK – an explosion of over 120,000 tulips and more than 150 varieties, all carefully orchestrated to create a stunning succession of colour throughout April. The festival showcases the versatility of tulips and other spring bulbs, with plantings in turf, borders and pots. I’ve been rifling through my photos of last April’s event, gleaning inspiration for my tulip orders this month.

Naturalised tulips

Entering the grounds through a portico, you are immediately met with swathes of naturalised bulbs sweeping between blossoming cherries. Flowering bulbs clothe the dry castle moat, creating a stunning contrast between the austere grey castle walls and their jewelled banks.

The display includes thousands of white Narcissus ‘Thalia’,  blue Camassia and even naturalised tulips. Tulips from previous years are recycled by transplanting them into the grass once they are past their best. Although hybrid tulips don’t naturalise as well as species tulips, flowering for about three years before fading, they make a rewarding display. Many of the naturalised tulips are Darwin hybrids. These are especially large-flowered, tall tulips which are renowned for being the most robust and long-lived of hybrid tulips.

close up of orange and yellow Darwin tulips

Darwin tulips are naturalised in grass
Image: Annelise Brilli

The landscape is punctuated with specimen trees, and at this point I was distracted by two stunning examples of Paulownia tomentosa in full bloom. This broadly spreading tree is a spring sensation, with upright panicles of soft purple, foxglove-like flowers appearing before the handsome, heart-shaped leaves emerge.

Paulownia tomentosa tree in full flower with Arundel castle in the background

Paulownia tomentosa
Image: Annelise Brilli

 

Erect panicle of pale purple flowers against a bright blue sky

The foxglove-like flowers of Paulownia tomentosa appear on bare branches before the leaves
Image: Annelise Brilli

Tulips in pots

Pots abound – in fact, there are over 500 of them – and it’s a stunning demonstration of the advantages of displaying spring bulbs in containers. Most of the pots are terracotta-coloured plastic, making them lightweight, portable and requiring less frequent watering. They’re easily shifted about to refresh earlier spent blooms, enliven bare or shady spots with colour and artfully placed to highlight and frame architectural features. The pots are rammed – remember that in containers you can get away with much denser planting, leaving only a few centimetres between each bulb – creating concentrated blocks of colour which are high impact.

A collage of 4 images showing containerised tulips at Arundel in a wide range of colours

There are over 500 pots of tulips providing plenty of inspiration for the home gardener
Image: Annelise Brilli

Designing with tulips

The crescendo of colour reaches its climax in The Collector’s Garden. What was once an abandoned kitchen garden and car park was transformed in 2008 into a Jacobean fantastical extravaganza. The area is divided into a series of rooms each with its own theatrical set piece carved out of green oak including a giant classical gateway, a temple crowned with antlers. shell-studded grottos and gilded fountains.

The tulip displays are carefully designed to vary in tone and intensity, enhancing the character of each garden room. Tulips offer an enormous range of colours to suit all tastes – from shimmering pastels to luxurious purples and maroons – and an unrivalled opportunity to indulge yourself with colour and paint the garden with flowers. Here’s a taste of some of Arundel’s tulip colours and suggestions of how to recreate the look at home.

Jewel tones

Mass planting of red, purple and deep maroon tulips

Image: Annelise Brilli

 

Box parterres with each triangular section planted up with tulips

‘Bow Tie Bed’ with massed plantings of tulips
Image: Annelise Brilli

A sumptuous colour scheme of red, purple and maroon-black was used to great effect in the organic kitchen garden, where it was planted into the ‘Bow-Tie Beds’ of neatly trimmed box.

Get the look

A snowy carpet with pops of red

Concentric swirls of white Narcissus and red Tulips planted in a lawn with an ornate pergola and pool in the background

Tulips and daffodils in the ‘Labyrinth Garden’
Image: Annelise Brilli

 

Close up of white narcissus and red tulips planted in the grass

The massed planting shimmers in the sunlight
Image: Annelise Brilli

In the stunning Labyrinth Garden, a large lawn is planted up with concentric swirls of more than 20,000 red Darwin tulips in a sea of pure white, scented  Narcissus ‘Thalia’, all surrounded by exotic windmill palms Trachycarpus fortunei.

Get the look

Shocking Pink

Foreground of bright pink tulips with gilded oak urns, decorated with gilded details spouting water in the background

Image: Annelise Brilli

 

Close up of Jacobean inspired cascade

Image: Annelise Brilli

Pots of large-headed, shocking pink tulips really made a splash beside the pool and cascade.

Get the look

 

Fruity shades of pink and yellow

Foreground planting of peachy pink and yellow tulips with exotic planting of windmill palms and chapel buildings in background

Image: Annelise Brilli

They often tell you not to mix pink and yellow, but this fruity cocktail defies the rule with elegance.

Get the look

 

Fire & ice

A bold arrangement of yellow, orange, red and cream tulips

Image: Annelise Brilli

These fiery tulips were tastefully toned down with dashes of cream.

Get the look

Orange glow

Close up of pot of orange, peony-flowered tulips

Image: Annelise Brilli

Pots of these layered, peony-flowered tulips were strategically placed to radiate a glow of warming tangerine in shadier corners of the garden.

Get the look

Lilac and lime

A pot of purple, double-flowered tulips with an orange Fritillaria imperialis, alongside Euphorbia wulfenii

Image: Annelise Brilli

These pale purple tulips pair beautifully with the zingy lime green of the euphorbia, the display given a lift by the addition of orange crown imperial fritillaries.

Get the look

 

A passion for purple

Pot planting of plain purple tulips alongside white tulips with purple streaks

Image: Annelise Brilli

This harmonising blend of purples created a relaxed ambience, framing some seating.

Get the look

Sweetening up the veg patch

Close up of orange tulips, flushed with darker pink, in walled kitchen garden with old lean-to greenhouse in the background

Image: Annelise Brilli

Tulips are a great way to inject some early colour into your veg plot whilst you are waiting for crops to bulk up. These tulips added a sugary sweet flavour interplanted amongst beets in the organic kitchen garden.

Get the look

Pretty pastels

Container planting of tulips in cream, lilac, pink, and purple with forget-me-nots

Image: Annelise Brilli

These grouped containers were a perfectly toned display of pastel creams and pinks balanced with deeper purple.

Get the look

Sunset hues

A planting of tulips in pale apricot and peachy pink

Image: Annelise Brilli

Garden plants which offer sunset colours are precious as there are few examples. Hybrid tulips offer some lovely choices – be sure to seek them out.

Get the look

 

Inspired by Arundel’s magnificent display, I’m busy compiling my spring bulb order.  Daffodils should be planted by the end of September, whilst tulips go in later from the end of October onwards – but be sure to order early in order to obtain the very best selections and have fun inventing your own creative colour combinations!

Taking cuttings of half hardy salvias

Close up of red flowers of Salvia 'Royal Bumble'

Salvia ‘Royal Bumble’ is so free-flowering it can be hard to keep up with the dead heading – but doing so will keep it blooming throughout summer
Image: Annelise Brilli

Salvias are amongst the most rewarding plants I grow and some the easiest to propagate. Having amassed a collection over the years, I’ve been busy taking cuttings of my half hardy species as an insurance against any winter losses and to rejunvenate old plants. They root very easily – so do have a go and build up your own collection of these fabulous, long-flowering perennials.

Why grow half-hardy Salvias?

Pink flowers of Salvia 'Pink Amistad'

Salvia ‘Pink Amistad’ is an excellent new introduction for 2022 which follows on the success of its relative ‘Amistad’. Both are easy to grow and long-flowering.
Image: Thompson & Morgan

The first time I saw Salvias I was instantly hooked. Their flowers are distinctly lustrous and jewel-like, due to the tiny, light-reflecting hairs which cover their surfaces. This lends them an extraordinary depth of colour and they excel in velvety purples, indigo and maroons. If you prefer cooler colours, there are plenty of worthwhile choices, such as the new introduction, ‘Pink Amistad’. The range of colours and habits makes them versatile plants, suitable for everything from cottage borders to tropical schemes, and they are excellent in containers too.

Salvia 'Cerro Potosi' smothered in bright pink flowers

Salvias are remarkably floriferous
Image: Annelise Brilli

Salvias are also some of the longest flowering plants I have in my garden. Keep them well fed, watered and regularly deadheaded, and many will bloom from June/July until the first frosts. Once established, they are drought tolerant and flourish on freely draining soils, although in a very hot, dry summer they will cease flowering earlier. In which case, trim them, give them a good water and wait for a second flowering in late summer.

Close up of Hummingbird Hawkmoth hovering in front of flower with its long proboscis extracting nectar

Salvias are a pollinator magnet and great for attracting unusual insects such as Hummingbird Hawkmoths
Image: Canva

Added to all these excellent attributes, Salvia flowers are loved by pollinating insects. Every summer I keep a keen eye on my Salvia ‘Royal Bumble’ whose sweet nectar is a favourite tipple for visiting hummingbird hawk moths. On sunny days, this day-flying moth whizzes around the garden, stopping to hover in front of the flowers, sipping the nectar with a long proboscis just like a hummingbird.

If all of this isn’t enough, Salvias also have fragrant foliage, with some, such as Salvia ‘Cerro Potosi’, being deliciously fruity.

Salvia hardiness

Close up of red flowers of Salvia fulgens

I’ve been testing out the hardiness of Salvias over the years and many, including more tender species such as this Salvia fulgens, have proved to be surprisingly resilient. However, taking cuttings gives me a fall-back and room to overwinter a larger variety of smaller plants as Salvias are fast-growers and can become large specimens by the end of the summer.
Image: Annelise Brilli

When I first began gardening, half-hardy salvias were rather unusual and considered a little difficult due to their tender nature. There are now a plethora of cultivars available and given sunny, well-drained soil, I have found that many of these will reliably over-winter. Salvia ‘Amistad’ will even successfully overwinter outdoors in my clay soil. However, some are short-lived and like ‘Amistad’ become woody and decline as they get older. Don’t be too quick to throw them out though – Salvias are slow into growth and can look a bit sorry for themselves in the spring. Be patient and wait until the weather warms up to start them into growth.

Leave shrubby salvias with their top growth over the winter as this will give them some protection. When they begin shooting in spring, prune them back to a low framework. I normally find that the thicker stems of Salvia ‘Amistad’ die completely – in which case just cut them right down and new growth will emerge from the base.

The most tender species will need to be over-wintered in a greenhouse. They’re good candidates for patio containers, which can be easily moved under cover at the end of the winter.

How to take Salvia cuttings

Preparation

  • Regular pinching out of shoots from spring onwards will generate plenty of material for cuttings
  • Avoid additional fertilising in an attempt to stimulate new growth for cuttings. This results in soft, nitrogenous shoots which do not root as well.
  • Cuttings should be ‘turgid’ when they are taken – in other words, the plants cells are fully swollen with water. Try to take them first thing in the morning, preferably on a dull day. Water them well the day before if they showing any signs of water stress.

Harvesting cutting material

  • Avoid soft tip growth – it wilts quickly, doesn’t root readily and produces weak plants.
  • Avoid thin, weak growth and older, woody growth
  • Select strong, actively-growing shoots which are still flexible but will snap when bent sharply.
Close up of person with secateurs taking cutting

Remove cutting material just above a node or leaf joint
Image: Annelise Brilli

  • Look for non-flowering side shoots. If this isn’t possible, always remove the flower buds.
  • When you are harvesting cutting material, cut just above a leaf node. This will leave the original plant tidy without any stubs which will die back. The material should have at least two leaf joints and be longer than the final cutting, which will be trimmed back just before insertion.
    Potting bench with plastic bag full of cuttings, penknife and secateurs

    Collecting cuttings in a plastic bag will protect them from moisture loss
    Image: Annelise Brilli

  • Immediately place the cuttings in a plastic bag with a label
  • Ideally trim and pot up cuttings straight away. If there is a delay, they can be stored in the refrigerator for a couple of hours. Chilling cutting material assists its survival and rooting success. 

Inserting cuttings & aftercare

Close up of hands mixing 50:50 mix of perlite and potting compost

Using perlite in your cutting mix allows free drainage and good aeration which helps to prevent cuttings from rotting off
Image: Annelise Brilli

  • Prepare pots of compost with a freely draining medium – I recommend a 50:50 mix of perlite and peat free compost.
  • Trim the cuttings with a sharp knife or secateurs just below a node. The cutting can be anything from 5cm-10cm long and should have two or more leaf joints or nodes.
    Close up of gardening removing leaves from bottom of cutting

    Removing the bottom leaves reduces water loss and allows easy insertion of the cutting
    Image: Annelise Brilli

  • Remove the leaves from the bottom of the cutting.
  • Salvias don’t require rooting hormones as they root very easily
    Close up of gardener inserting cuttings

    Insert cuttings as soon as possible after collecting them
    Image: Annelise Brilli

  • Insert several cuttings into each pot, label and date them
  • Water them well
    Potting bench with cuttings in sealed polythene bag

    Create a humid environment by placing the pot of cuttings in a sealed polythene bag
    Image: Annelise Brilli

  • Place the cuttings inside a clear, polythene bag
  • Put the cutting somewhere in good light in a cool environment – not in direct sun or a hot, greenhouse. Adequate shading is essential during summer.
  • Check the cuttings regularly for moisture levels and to remove any dead leaves. Ventilate them if fungal growth is occurring.
  • Cuttings should root in 3-4 weeks.
  • When they are well rooted transfer them into individual pots with good quality peat-free compost. Grow on in frost-free conditions over winter, ready for planting out next spring.

Taking cuttings of salvias will rejuvenate your stocks with young vigorous plants and because they root so easily you’ll have plenty to give to friends too. Kickstart your collection by browsing our salvia plants online.

 

 

The Best Plants for July

July border in pink and magenta colour scheme

Star plants in July: Eupatorium atropurpureum (back), Echinacea purpurea (left), Veronicastrum virginicum (centre), Phlox paniculata (right)
Image: Canva

After June’s spurt of fresh foliage and flowers, the heat of July can begin to draw some of the vigour out of displays. Here are 5 reliable perennials which will continue to reward throughout this month.

Alstroemeria ‘Indian Summer’

close up of Alstroemeria 'Indian Summer' flowers, trumpet shaped, burnt orange outer petals and yellow inside

Alstroemeria ‘Indian Summer’
Image: Thompson & Morgan

June is largely dominated by soft pastel colours but come July the garden palette begins to warm up. Alstroemeria ‘Indian Summer’ delivers a tropical punch with its fruity, burnt orange and yellow blooms set against bronze foliage. This is one of those ‘firework’ plants which has real impact in borders and containers. It certainly earns its place as it keeps blooming through to October and the flowers last for ages in a vase.

  • Height & Spread: 75cm (30″) x 60cm (24″).
  • Growing conditions: fertile soil in a warm, sunny spot
  • Hardiness: Hardy
  • Flowering season: Early summer until the first frosts

Echinacea ‘Rubinstern’

Close up of Echinacea 'Rubinstern' with pink ray florets and prominent, orangey-brown central cone

Echinacea ‘Rubinstern’ Image: Canva

Coneflowers are plants with real presence. They stand sturdily upright on unbranching stems which don’t require staking. The flowers have a pleasingly definite shape, each one crowned with a fat, spiny cone. Their strong silhouette combines well with ornamental grasses. ‘Rubinstern’ is one of the best selections, with a rich pink colour.

  • Height & Spread: 90cm (36″) x 50cm (20″).
  • Growing conditions: A sunny border in any freely draining soil which does not get waterlogged in the winter
  • Hardiness: Hardy
  • Flowering season: July to August

Diascia ‘Hopleys’

Close up of pink flowers with red eye of Diascia 'Hopleys'

Diascia ‘Hopleys’
Image: Canva

This long flowering perennial is much underused for such a rewarding plant. All summer long, Diascia ‘Hopleys’ produces tall clouds of small, dusky pink flowers which work beautifully in the middle of a sunny, well-drained border or as a free-flowering container feature.

  • Height & Spread: 90cm (36”) x 50cm (20”).
  • Growing conditions: Full sun and well draining soil
  • Hardiness: Hardy
  • Flowering season: May to October

Dahlia ‘Totally Tangerine’

Group of 'Totally Tangerine' flowers - single apricot blooms with ruffled centres

Dahlia ‘Totally Tangerine’
Image: Thompson & Morgan

This is a dahlia with real class and one of my favourites. The apricot to pink blooms of ‘Totally Tangerine’ have a distinctive luminosity in the evening sun and unlike some of the more garish dahlias, it’s a colour which works harmoniously in borders alongside other herbaceous perennials. It’s also sturdy and well branching and so makes a great specimen for a large container– try it with a contrasting violet salvia such as ‘Amistad’ surrounded by some airy Panicum elegans ‘Sprinkles’.

  • Height & Spread: : 80cm (24″ to 32″) x 45cm (18″)
  • Growing conditions: Full sun and freely draining soil
  • Hardiness: Tender
  • Flowering season: July to November

Phlox ‘Bright Eyes’

Close up of lilac-pink Phlox flowers with bright pink eyes

Phlox ‘Bright Eyes’
Image: Shutterstock

Phlox paint bold blocks of colour in a border like no other perennial, their domed panicles forming soft duvets of pinks and violets, providing a dreamy backdrop to other more structural perennials. Their other asset is fragrance – billowing clouds of sweet perfume which float across the summer garden. ‘Bright Eyes’ forms gorgeous drifts of pink in the middle and back of borders, each flower picked out with a darker pink eye.

  • Height & Spread:  80cm (31″) x 60cm (24″).
  • Growing conditions: Moist, fertile soil, in full sun or partial shade – the flowers lasting longer if given some shade. Good for clay soils.
  • Hardiness: Hardy
  • Flowering season: July-August

If Annelise’s July favourites have inspired you, check out our summer flowers hub page for more great ideas for brightening up your garden this summer. For more plants which are looking fabulous this month, see Looking Good on The Nursery. 

Jobs to do in the garden in July

Colourful double herbaceous border containing dahlias, echinacea, heleniums, echinops and ornamental grasses with a grass path in between

With borders in full swing, make sure you put your feet up and enjoy them! Image: Dreamstime

Phew! It’s July. Borders are at their peak, but growth is slowing down so you should have time to put your feet up and take some garden notes. Observe what has and hasn’t worked, plants which need dividing and gaps which need filling. Then, after rousing from your recliner to crack on with the ‘Hampton Court Hack’, reward yourself by compiling a greedy wish list of your must-have plants and seeds for next year.

 

Hanging Baskets and containers

Woman watering a hanging basket

Keep watering and feeding hanging baskets
Image: Canva

  • In the July heat, hanging baskets and containers can dry out extremely quickly and may even need watering twice a day. Even if it rains, water often barely penetrates due to the thick mass of roots and umbrella of foliage cover so they will need a good soaking by hand.
  • The constant watering will flush away nutrients, so it’s important to keep on applying a weekly high-potash feed.
  • Keep on deadheading to stimulate new blooms. Pansies and petunias can begin to look straggly at this time of year, so rather than fiddling about trying to deadhead individual flowers shear them back and feed them to promote a flush of new growth and later flowers.

 

Hampton Court Hack

close up of two clumps of nepeta in garden border which have been cut down to ground level

This Nepeta (catmint) has been sheared down to the ground and given the ‘Hampton Court Hack’
Image: Annelise Brilli

  • By early July, some of the perennials which flowered earlier can look a bit tired. It’s time to undertake the ‘Hampton Court Hack’, so called because it coincides with the Hampton Court Flower Show. Try it out on Alchemilla mollis, straggly pansies and violas, astrantias, catmint (Nepeta), and hardy geraniums. Simply shear them right down to the ground, followed by a good soak and you’ll be rewarded with fresh new foliage and possibly a second flush of flowers.
  • You can also cut back the all flowered stems of lupins, delphiniums and aquilegias (if you don’t want them to self seed).

 

Bearded iris

Gardener digging up a clump of iris rhizomes ready for dividing

Divide congested irises this month after they have finished flowering
Image: Dreamstime

  • Divide clumps of bearded iris if they are overgrown. Lift clumps and select the largest, healthiest rhizomes for replanting. Cut each fan of leaves to about 15cm (6”), then replant, firming them in well before watering.

 

Box Hedging

Low box hedge with brown defoliated leaves caused by box moth caterpillar

Characteristic defoliation on box hedges caused by box moth caterpillar
Image: Canva

  • Box tree moth caterpillar is now widespread and can cause severe damage, even death, very quickly. Use pheromone traps to monitor populations – they can have up to 4 generations each season.  Inspect your box for the caterpillar and either pick off the caterpillars or spray with a contact insecticide if necessary. If box caterpillar is becoming a severe problem in your area, it may be wise to consider alternatives such as yew hedging.

 

Prune Flowering Shrubs

Close up of white Philadelphus flowers against a blue sky

Early flowering shrubs such as this Philadelphus are pruned this month
Image: Canva

  • Cut back the flowered growth on shrubs that bloom in early summer including Philadelphus, Weigela and Deutzia. Prune them back to strong young shoots lower down. Also remove up to a fifth of the oldest stems to near the base, rejuvenating your shrub by promoting the growth of new, young shoots.
  • After flowering give Helianthemums an all-over trim with a pair of shears, reducing them to neat hummocks which are about 15cm high (6”). This needs to be done every year to promote compact, ground hugging plants which are smothered in flowers.
  • With most other Mediterranean shrubs you need to be more cautious – neither Cistus purpureus or Phlomis fruticosa will tolerate much pruning – but to keep them compact you can lightly trim over the soft green shoots without going into the older, hard wood.

 

Watering new plants

Keep watering newly planted trees, shrubs and young plants whilst they are still getting established.

Propagation

Close up of hand holding a lavender cutting

Take lavender cuttings now
Image: Canva

  • Take cuttings from tender plants such as salvias, and Mediterranean herbs like lavender, rosemary and sage, selecting non-flowering stems from the current season’s growth.
  • From now until early autumn, take semi-ripe cuttings from hardy climbers, and evergreen shrubs and hedging plants, selecting growth that has begun to harden at the base.
  • Continue to sow biennials, including flowers for cutting such as wallflowers and Lunaria.
  • Transplant seedlings of biennials sown earlier in the year and give them a good water. Continue to water them regularly.

 

Summer prune wisteria

Close up of flower racemes of a wisteria

All wisterias require pruning twice a year, once in summer and again in winter
Image: Canva

  • In warm areas of the UK leave this job until August to reduce the amount of regrowth. In cold climates cut back the long whippy shoots now, pruning them back to about five leaves.

 

Greenhouse

Close up of yellow sticky card covered in insects hanging in greenhouse

Pest populations multiply rapidly in hot greenhouses
Image: Canva

  • Greenhouse plants are vulnerable to scorch and heat stress, so open all the vents and doors, use shading and damp down regularly.
  • Put up yellow sticky cards to monitor pests and keep your eye out for infestations of red spider mite, whitefly, mealy bug and scale insects
  • Greenhouse debris can harbour pests and diseases so sweep up any dead leaves and remove dead plants promptly.

 

Roses

Close up of person holding secateurs about to prune a rose branch

Prune once flowering shrub roses after blooming
Image: Canva

  • Keep deadheading your roses, cutting back faded flowers to the first leaf behind the flower.
  • Pick off any leaves affected by blackspot or rust
  • Lightly prune old fashioned, once-flowering shrub roses, ensuring that you don’t spoil their arching habit. Remove any dead, diseased or damaged growth. If there is congested old wood in the centre, remove one or two of these older stems.
  • After flowering, prune back any unwanted or congested growth on rambling roses, tying in new replacement shoots. Prune back the remaining side shoots by two thirds.
  • Keep an eye out for suckers produced below the grafting point – they are usually lighter in colour with green stems and a different number of leaflets. Rather than cutting them, dig down to expose their origin and pull the suckers off.

 

Lawns

Close up of wildflower patch with hawkweeds and oxeye daisies

Boost insect populations by letting some wildflowers bloom in the lawn
Image: Canva

  • Help save pollinators and let it grow high in July! Relaxing your mowing regime and setting the blades higher will not only promote stronger growth which is more resilient to drought but will also permit short plants like daisies to flower. See Rewilding the Lawn for more information.
  • If it’s hot and dry the lawn may start to look brown but resist the temptation to splurge water on it as it will simply be wasted through evaporation. Trust that underground roots will enable the grass to recover once rainfall arrives.
  • Apply your last lawn feed at the beginning of this month. Leave it any later and you will promote soft green growth in the autumn which will be vulnerable to pests and winter cold.

Seed Collecting

Close up of dried legume pods which have been opened and seed collected in a tub

Collecting seeds is a fun and economical way of growing plants
Image: Canva

  • Go around your garden (and perhaps your neighbours!) collecting your favourite seeds from hardy annuals and biennials such as poppies, nigella, and foxgloves. Save the little sachets of silica gel which you find in numerous products and place these in an air tight container with your seeds to keep them dry.

 

Pond

close up of dried out pond with exposed butyl liner

If your pond dries out not only will it threaten the survival of pond creatures but it will also expose the liner to damaging UV rays
Image: Canva

  • Ponds can quickly dry up in hot weather so keep it topped up with collected rainwater. If rainwater isn’t available, fill up an empty water butt with tap water and leave it for 24 hours, during which time the chlorine will evaporate.

 

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