Thompson & Morgan Gardening Blog

Our gardening blog covers a wide variety of topics, including fruit, vegetable and tree stories. Read some of the top gardening stories right here.

Propagation, planting out and cultivation posts from writers that know their subjects well.

Chilli update: Some like it hotter!

Having looked at how to keep your chilli plants cool during summer extremes in my last update, I thought I’d flip the focus this time and look at ways of packing extra heat into your chillies.

All chilli varieties fall within their own heat range on the Scoville Heat Scale. If you are new to the scale, the ratings simply represent the number of drops of water needed to dilute the heat of the chilli until you can no longer feel the heat in your mouth. Luckily plant scientists have done this for us so we don’t need to find out the hard way!

SCOVILLE

Some growers often report a lack of heat in their chillies after harvest, despite growing some of the hotter strains.  Fortunately, there are a few simple tricks you can employ to ensure your chillies top out at the high end of their Scoville range.

chilli updateA lack of heat is often down to treating the plants too well during the growing season – the heat in a chilli is the plant’s defence mechanism against environmental stress (drought and excessive sunshine/heat) and hungry animals munching on the plants in the wild – interestingly only mammals are affected by the heat in chillies, birds and reptiles can eat them with no ill effect.

Give your chilli plants too much comfort during the growing season and they think there is no need to pack their fruits with heat (sorry to anthropomorphise, I try not to do this when it comes to plants and animals but sometimes it can’t be helped!).

So, to increase the heat and produce fiery chillies the answer is simple – a bit of harsh treatment and tricking them into thinking they are under animal attack.

chilli-updateThe first tip to hotter chillies is to allow a good drying period before each watering, even letting the plants wilt for half a day or so before giving them a good drink. I did this earlier in the week, As you can see, having let the plants droop, they soon picked up after a good watering. Don’t do this too many times as it will eventually weaken the plant and have a negative effect, but 3 or 4 times through the season should get the results you want without long term damage to the plant.

Secondly, make the plant feel it is under attack from a hungry herbivore – once a week scrunch a few leaves by hand, even snap the odd side stem, and the plant will think it is being eaten and pack extra heat into its fruit to prevent future attacks.

Thirdly, pump up the heat. Grow two of the same chilli variety in your greenhouse, one at floor level and one as high up on shelving as possible where temperatures will be higher (hot air rises). You’ll notice on eating that the chillies picked from the plant on the floor will be cooler to taste than those picked from the plants on high. Similarly grow one on a windowsill and another in the garden – the garden plant will produce cooler chillies than the one grown in the warmth of the house.

And finally, there is the cheat’s way. I’ve never tried this but I’ve heard that by adding a hot chilli sauce like Tabasco to your watering can, you will transfer the heat to your chillies. You can even try this with sweet peppers and tomatoes and turn them hot. I’d love someone to give this a go on their tomatoes and let me know the results!

 

Head to our dedicated hub page for more excellent tips, chilli and sweet pepper growing guides, and variety specific advice.

Faithful planting companions

There are some plants that we tend to take for granted or largely ignore; this is because we are simply so used to seeing them. But these plants that are given the backseat are great performers and are our gardens most faithful planting companions.

Have you ever noticed how car parks and other heavy use landscape areas use many of the same plants? Well, there is a good reason for this; they are tough as old boots. They will grow with minimum attention, many of them positively thriving on neglect and even when our busy lives divert our attention away from them, they will still flourish.

dogwoodWho are these stalwarts of the plant world?

Many of them are reliable shrubs such as Cotoneaster, Vinca, Viburnum, Dogwood, Sambucus, Ceanothus and Pyracantha. Shrubby Dogwoods, otherwise known as Cornus, aren’t fussy about their soil conditions and will thrive in particularly damp soil where other shrubs may not.

What makes them suitable for these environments?

These shrubs are tough, resilient, low maintenance and can withstand trampling by children and animals. Once established they can cope without any irrigation and even though they need virtually no pruning, they will still look great throughout the year. Many of these plant varieties will provide evergreen groundcover, summer flowers and winter berries for a full years worth of colour and interest. What more could you want?

 

These plants are the perfect choices if you are a beginner gardener and if you have little time to spare but still like your outdoor spaces to look fantastic.

Watering plants during summer

So, judging by the weather it looks like I jinxed it when I shouted summer is here, it has lasted all of a week!  The occasional down pour is actually quite important for plants. The rain will encourage leafy growth, meaning you get even bushier plants, with the potential for more blooms! As long as it doesn’t stick around, I will be happy.

We are sure it will return just when you are jetting off on your summer holidays so it is important to invest in watering systems to keep your garden looking its best whilst you are away.

holiday watering

Whilst the rain will keep your borders hydrated, it doesn’t always manage to get into patio pots. If your patio container plants have a dense canopy of leaves means, rainfall will often bounce off, so watering by hand (or setting up an irrigation system) can’t be beaten. There are some really efficient systems now available, often with computerised timers, so you won’t have to forgo those weekends away!

You could consider asking a neighbour to water them for you! When you go away try to move the plants into a shaded area, this will cause them to dry out a little less. Remember how thirsty tomato plants can be. Plenty of water and feed will give you bumper crops. Try to be consistent though, to avoid problems with fruit set. Our tomato auto-watering collars are a great way of getting water directly to the plant roots. This is especially useful in grow bags, where water runoff can be an issue.

Feed is so important! A top dressing of Incredibloom® RIGHT NOW will give the effect of your plants supping an energy drink! But will last much longer. Remember that Incredibloom® gives more bountiful growth, more stems, more leaves, AND more flowers!!

incredibloom

How do you keep your plants watered during summer and holiday periods?

Keeping hot chillies cool!

The sunshine is here at last – but don’t let conservatory and greenhouse chillies frazzle in the excessive heat. Temperatures hit 48C in my south-facing conservatory yesterday and I’m expecting even higher temperatures today. Luckily I had the foresight to move my chillies outside onto the patio before I left for work, where a fresh breeze kept them cooler in the summer sunshine. I’ve done the same today and given them a good drink to get them through the day.

chillies

If you can’t move your plants outside during peaks of hot weather, make sure to water them heavily in the morning during hot spells – check them again in the evening for dryness. In a greenhouse you can ‘dampen down’ to raise humidity and lower temperatures, this simply means wetting all surfaces – floors, glass, benching etc.

 

This isn’t practical in a conservatory. But you can do a couple of things to cool things down and raise the humidity. Firstly, spray foliage with a fine mist of water to keep them cool. You can also sit your pots on a tray of damp gravel or clay pebbles (hydroleca) this will create a humid micro climate around you plants, reducing the risk of leaf frazzle during the midday sun.

padron peppers

With the sun out, I’m bringing a touch of Spain to my dinner tonight. My first lot of padron peppers are ready to pick tonight, so I’ll be making a classic tapas dish to eat alfresco this evening – padrons lightly fried in olive oil, sprinkled in salt and eaten hole (minus the stalks!) – Simple but delicious!

An update from the greenhouse

Hello Everyone,

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The importance of pot size when growing chillies

As we reach midsummer (where has the season gone!) chillies really take off, particularly in a warm conservatory like mine.

The plants’ frameworks are nicely developed now and many of the varieties I’m growing are now starting to flower – in the case of ‘Padron’ I’ve already got the first fruits and I could be picking them this weekend (that early start in February really paid off!).

potting on chillies

It’ll soon be time to start feeding them – more on that with my next update.

For now I want to show you the importance of potting on. Pot size really matters when it comes to growing sizable plants – the bigger the plants the more fruit you’ll get. As you can see from the photo, the two Habaneros look nothing like one another, despite being sown on the same day and being grown on in the same location in the same compost. The only difference is pot size.

potting on chillies

The smaller plant remains in a one litre pot while the other was potted on into a 5litre container, the results speak for themselves. If you’ve still got chillies in small pots – think about moving them on. I recommend a 2 litre pot as a minimum for a decent manageable plant, but if you can go for a 5 or 10 litre pot, you’ll be surprised at just what you will achieve with your plants before autumn sets in.

 

For more chilli growing advice and to find some top variety suggestions head to our chillies and sweet peppers hub page.

Herb Garden

Herb gardens are becoming increasingly popular as gardeners discover how easy they are to grow and maintain. You don’t even need a large piece of land to grow your own herbs in your garden as they will happily thrive in beds, containers, windowsills and even hanging baskets.
When growing an herb garden it is worth thinking about which herb plants you are going to use, annual, perennial or biennial. Annual herbs such as basil, coriander, dill and chervil are fast growing and may need to be sown at intervals throughout spring and summer to ensure you have a continuous fresh supply. Find more great herb varieties to grow and plenty of growers advice at our herb hub page.

How to grow Basil

Basil seed can be sown from February to June, or for indoor cultivation sown throughout the year out of season. Basil requires sustained warmth so it is best kept on a sunny windowsill, in a propagator at a temperature of 15-25C (59-77F) or seal the container inside a polythene bag until after germination, which takes 14-21 days. When they are large enough to handle, transplant seedlings into 7.5cm (3in) pots and grow basil plants on in cooler conditions.

herb garden basil

Perennial plants such as mint, thyme, sage and chive are slower growing than annual herbs and require more of a permanent location.

How to grow Mint

Mint is an easy to grow perennial herb, requiring minimal attention and returning year after year. Sow mint seeds indoors or under glass from winter to early summer. Place the seed tray in a propagator at a temperature of 21-24C (70-75F) and when seedlings are large enough to handle, transplant into 7.5cm (3″) pots and grow on in cooler conditions. Once all risk of frost has passed gradually acclimatise before placing outside.

herb-garden-mint

Growing herbs in containers

Growing herbs in containers is the perfect option for those who are limited on space. They will be most convenient placed on the patio by your back door, where they are within easy reach when cooking. For larger herbs such as rosemary, make sure you use a larger pot so they are less likely to dry out. The best compost to grow herbs in is loam-based compost such as John Innes and feed your pot-grown herbs regularly with a balanced fertiliser throughout the growing season.

Top tips for growing herbs

1.    Trimming herbs in the spring will encourage a flush of new healthy leaves.
2.    Dead-head your herbs as the flowers start to fade to channel their energy into leaf growth.
3.    In the autumn it’s best to leave any dead foliage on the plant to help protect it throughout winter.
4.    Re-pot after a few years if your herb plants start to look weak and dry out quickly.
5.    When harvesting herbs, remove foliage from the outside of the plant, allowing new leaves to develop in the centre.

A Small Gardening Space

After living without any outdoor space of my own for 5 years, last year we moved and I gained an empty balcony. A blank canvas. When you live without any outdoor gardening space you realise just how much you previously took it for granted. I had never been a gardener, despite my mother avidly encouraging me through my youth. However, spurred on by the gift of some blueberry bushes and the notion of ‘feeding off my (rented) land’ I decided to give growing a go.

read more…

Perennial plants

What are Perennial plants?

Perennial plants add colour and seasonal interest to the garden from April to November, often attracting bees and butterflies to their blooms, and making great cut flowers too. They are incredibly versatile and can be used as fillers between shrubs, planted as groundcover beneath trees, grown in containers or planted on their own to create a classic herbaceous border. Herbaceous perennial plants are an easy alternative to annual flowers, returning each year and growing larger as they mature.
A perennial plant lives for more than two years, longer than shorter-lived annuals and biennials.

Our Top Perennial Plants

1. Foxglove illumination pink

Winner of Plant of the Year 2012 RHS Chelsea Flower Show, Best new product at the Anglian Business Awards and Best new product at the Garden Retail awards. Being completely sterile Foxglove ‘Illumination’ won’t set seed, giving it an incredibly long flowering period. Unlike most foxgloves which are generally biennial, this half-hardy semi-evergreen is a true perennial so you will be able to enjoy its flowers for years to come.

perennial plants

2. Geranium Rozanne

Winner of The RHS Chelsea Flower Show ‘Plant of the Centenary’, this stunning Geranium will flower repeatedly throughout summer and will turn to a fiery orange colour for an extended display in autumn.

perennial plants

3. Sedum

Sedums, also known as Stonecrop, are superb for their late summer and autumn colour, often flowering into November! With fantastic tolerance to drought, salty coastal conditions, and poor soil, Sedums are one of the easiest plants to grow in the garden.

perennial plants

Gardening, a challenging few months

Tomtato

Tomtato

This spring has proved the most challenging gardening season in all my gardening years. In November 2014 whilst on holiday at my Sister`s in Huntington Beach, California, I had a bad fall and fractured my spine. I`ve always wanted an extended holiday but not quite like this – flat on my back. Getting the garden ready had to be done in short bursts so I could rest but with the help of my Husband Alan, who did all of the lifting, moving and digging I managed to get the garden sorted.

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